A Reminiscent of the Sea Dress – McCall’s 5292 Pattern Review


A few years ago, I decided I was going to get back into sewing, and I picked up a few patterns to start with.  My mom cautioned me to pick 5292patterns of clothes that I would actually want to wear, not just items that looked quick and easy.  One of the patterns I bought was McCalls 5292.  Then, as it is wont to do, life happened, and sewing was pushed to the way side again.  Along with the sewing machine, McCalls 5292 was put away in a drawer and forgotten about.  It seems that even McCalls has forgotten about it, because if you search for it on their website, it doesn’t come up.  The picture to the right is from the website sewing.patternreview.com.  You can see my review of the pattern there as well.  Fast forward to present day, As I was perusing my patterns while looking at this lovely, lightweight fabric of green, blue, and purple squares (one of the polyester charmeuse fabrics gifted to me by my mother), this one popped up and the yardage needed matched the yardage I was given.  In my world, that’s a sign that this dress finally needs to happen. 🙂 So I made it 🙂

As a pattern review, I sewed View C in a size 10. I based my sizing decision on the finished garment measurements on the pattern. This is an older pattern that is discontinued and the sizing in the 4-6-8-10 range is smaller than most of my current patterns.


I really liked the neckline and flared skirt, but my fabric was so lightweight, i decided to underline the skirt with the same fabric i used for the lining (a hunter green pongee lining fabric).  It was a little extra work, but I think it paid off in the finished product because the skirt hangs and wears nicely, without getting caught between my legs when I walk or stand.  Since the skirt is underlined, Instead of a 1-1/4″ hem, I used a narrow hem of about 5/8″. The only other alteration I made was simply for a clean finish on the interior.  The instructions have you machine stitch the midriff and midriff lining pieces together and then stitch them as one to the skirt, leaving that seam visible on the inside of the dress. For a cleaner finish, I stitched the midriff and skirt together, and then hand sewed the midriff lining down over that seam allowance.  Yes, I chose to hand sew of all things.  What can I say? My mom was right :), I like the look and feel of it better than leaving the raw edge.

I like it and I’m glad I finally made it.  And look, I included a twirling shot just for y’all! I think it would make a cute peplum-style top instead of a full dress and who doesn’t like options? 🙂  What do you think?

A Festive Fourth of July Dress – Vogue 8972 Pattern Review


I was invited to a wedding in Detroit, over the Fourth of July weekend.  I wanted to be weather appropriate and festive, and coordinate with my date, but instead of going dress shopping, I went fabric shopping.   He decided his tie and socks early on, and I decided to coordinate with them.  I also wanted a full skirt and a fitted bodice, so I dug into my patterns and came up with about four that might possibly work, then decided on one I hadn’t gotten a chance to make yet.  Vogue 8972, with it’s waist shaping and full skirt option, was my number one draft pick.  We went to Joann’s with no avail.  Then, on a last minute decision, we went to a liquidating Hancock Fabrics, and found the fabrics that said this dress was definitely meant to be.

As a pattern review, I made View D in a size 6 with an A cup bodice.   Oh yeah, let’s talk fabric! For the dress, the bodice – Red Shantung Satin, the midriff – Red, White, and Blue Plaid Cotton, and for the skirt – a Navy Blue that shimmers to Black Crinkle Taffeta. For the lining, bodice is self lined with the same Red Shantung Satin, the midriff is lined in a very lightweight White Satin, and the skirt is lined in Navy Blue Pongee Lining fabric.

As a design change/alteration, I used an invisible zipper and did not topstitch it.

I think it came out well. In future iterations I think I will scoop the neckline lower and possibly change to the B cup bodice pieces.  I also eventually want to make one of the sheath views.  By the way, the bolero is from McCalls 3033, with lengthened sleeves,  shaped back to match dress, and lined in plaid. 🙂  What can I say, I like to match. 🙂

Ride the Wave Dress – Simplicity 1375 Pattern Review

I once made a dress, in a pretty black and grey fabric, with gold chains on it.  I followed all the directions, tried on the dress, and it fit.  Then I tossed it into the laundry to be washed and worn.  When I pulled it out, the fabric had unraveled so much that a key seam was not repairable.  That dress was Simplicity 1375.  I still wanted a dress in that style, but the frustration caused me to put the pattern away for months.  I had a cruise coming up, and I thought this fabric (gifted to me by my mommy from her stash) would be perfect for it, do you agree?

As a pattern review, Simplicity 1375 is described as  “misses’ and plus size easy-to-sew maxi dresses with faux wrap & flutter sleeve with cold shoulder option. short dress can be faux wrap with flutter sleeves or deep v with 1/2 sleeves or cold shoulder.”  I sewed View D in a size XXS with a polyester charmeuse in greens and yellows with a dotted wave pattern.  This time to try to ensure I will be able to wear it more than once, I overlocked the raw edges after each seam was done.  My fabric did not hold a press well, so I overlocked the binding edges and stitched down instead of pressing under (as per the directions).  I  also altered the way the casing was done. I used both sections of the seam allowance and stitched them down, instead of following the directions to trim one edge and fold under the other one and stitch. I recognized (this time 🙂 lol) that my fabric is subject to fraying incessantly, so hopefully my changes will prevent this dress from coming apart.


I liked this dress the first time, so I’m glad I took the time to make it again, and I’m glad that I took the time to think about the process beforehand to make sure it will last.  I now consider that first dress a lesson to not follow directions mindlessly.  Even in sewing we should critically consider every choice in relation to the whole and make the best decision from there.  I think this dress flattering, and hope to get a lot of wearings out of it. I do want to mention that the straight skirt does cause a long-legged girl like me to shorten her stride slightly. 🙂 but who cares?  Doesn’t it look nice? lol




A Twirl of Color Dress – Vogue 8997 Pattern Review

May we talk about Vogue 8997, please?  I know it’s been talked about a dozen times over by other people, but I think I love it.  I picked up this color splotched stretch cotton sateen at Hancock Fabrics last fall when the Spring Coordinates section went to 70% off.  Remember this dress from last fall?  Same fabric sale, so I had to get it.  I used a random white polyester stable knit that I found in pieces in the remnant bin to line it. I love them together.  The dress has some heft when you pick it up, but feels like a second skin when on.

Just look at it, the V-neck, the V-back, the full skirt, and guess what?  It has pockets!   Why did I wait so long to jump on the Vogue 8997 bandwagon?  🙂

As a pattern review, it’s described as “lined dress has princess seams, close-fitting bodice, raised waist, stitched hems, back zipper, and unlined sleeve variations.”  I sewed view B in a size 6.  I followed the directions except for slipstitching the shoulders.  I pulled them through the bodice and machine stitched them instead.


I love this dress. It feels great, the pockets are well placed and hidden. It twirls with abandon, and i want so many more iterations of it!  🙂

An Easy Cotton Dress – McCalls 7315 Pattern Review

I thought I was going to like McCalls 7315.  I really did.  I saw the fabric on the live model from the pattern envelope in the store, but didn’t really like it.  I even almost bought the watercolor satin fabric shown on envelope for view D.  I’m really glad that I didn’t.  It is a very easy pattern as advertised, I just don’t like it on me and for me.  I thought I would like the V-neck and asymmetrical hemline. I don’t like either.  The neckline is too high and the hemline seems unbalanced on me.

As a pattern review, this one is  described as “dresses with neckline variations,” (1 variation) “fitted, lined bodice, skirt cut on crosswise grain, shaped hemline, wrong side shows, back zipper and narrow hem.”  I used a size 8 in view D with no hem band in a Floral Cotton Print from Hancock Fabrics (yes, I am so sad they are closing; however that liquidation “sale” is ridiculous and will not benefit from my patronage).

The pattern is very easy as it states, that much is accurate. I just don’t like the end result. If it is what you’re looking for though, then it should be an easy and relatively quick project for even a beginner to take on.  🙂

Stained Glass Dress – Vogue 9100 Pattern Review


Vogue 9100 has been a thorn in my side since last year when I purchased the pattern and discovered the skirt pieces were drafted incorrectly.  I was initially interested in it because the drawing on the envelope looked like a full skirt and I though it would be cute for summer.  I called and emailed Vogue, paid the postage to send it to them, they sent me another one with a coupon for a Butterick pattern supposedly to make up for me paying postage. I think that’s silly considering they screwed up a Vogue pattern, they should send me a coupon for a Vogue pattern to make up for my postage.  I barely glance at the Butterick catalog, so it’s still sitting somewhere unused.

The new pattern has been sitting waiting for me, so I decided that all that effort required me make the dress.  In the meantime I researched the pattern and learned that both the drawings on the envelope and the picture of the model on Vogue’s website are misleading. The model is wearing a petticoat to make the skirt appear full. It is not. Even though once i delved into the pattern I didn’t think I would be happy with the result, i went to Hancock Fabrics, picked out this pretty stained glass-esque fabric in peacock colors, and got to sewing.

As a pattern review, I made a size 10 of view A.  The instructions were easy to follow, however, you may want to make a muslin of the bodice (I did).  The construction order has sewing the shoulders as one of the last steps.

i thought I would like this one.  When it was done, I didn’t. I let it hang and look at me for a few days, and by the time I put it on to wear to work today, it had grown on me a little bit. I wouldn’t sew it again, it’s just not my usual aesthetic.:) Live and learn. 🙂

I Made A Jumper and I Like It – Simplicity 1325 Pattern Review

Yep, for some reason I made a jumper.  I picked up Simplicity 1325 sometime ago on sale.  The pattern kept calling to me from my stash, probably because of the V-neck. I haven’t made the shirt from the pattern yet, but I plan to soon.  I wore a sweater with it for pictures since it was around 50-60 degrees that day.  Look my jumper even has pockets!

As a pattern review, I made View C in a size 6.  The instructions were easy to follow, and I actually followed every one in order without alterations. 🙂 I even followed the one to slipstitch the lining down (instead of stitching in the ditch, lol)! I used an odd knit I picked up from Hancock Fabrics that only stretches on the bias, and had black flocking until I washed it.  So if you see it at the store and love it, know that the flocking will end up in your lint trap if you put it in the dryer.

This was also my first time doing a lapped zip, per the instructions instead of an invisible zip.  I had to run to Walmart to go get a regular one, it appears I  only stash invisibles :).  I don’t know why my photographer didn’t flip the lap down after I took off my jacket, but hey now you can see it. 🙂  All in all, this is a nice pattern to put together and will be useful to alter for your own ideas.